Fuchsia Dunlop: The Food of Sichuan

The Food of Sichuan (A New and Updated edition of Land of Plenty)- Fuchsia Dunlop – Hardcover – 978-1-324-00483-7 – 480 pages – W.W. Norton – October 15, 2019 – $40.00 – ebook versions available at lower prices.

I love cooking and I particularly love cooking Chinese cuisine, and among Chinese cuisines, my favorite has always been Sichuanese. I am by no means an expert chef, but as an educated and somewhat experienced eater and cook, books like The Food of Sichuan are wonderful for me to read and learn from. Now having spent some time with the recipes, I can attest that this is a spectacular book for anyone interested in becoming a better cook of any form of Chinese cuisine.

Fuchsia’s writing about traditional Sichuan cookery is illuminating, and her knowledge and awareness the issues facing western cooks make this book a pleasure to work with. And it is a beautifully produced book – so much so that I have had to be extremely careful as I cooked from it, as I did not want to splash soy sauce or hoisin on any of the pages of the book.

Nearly twenty years ago, Fuchsia’s first book, Land of Plenty, was viewed by many to be one of the greatest cookbooks of all time. In this new book, Dunlop returns to the region where her own culinary journey began, adding more than 70 new recipes to the original selection and adding new writing as well.

The Food of Sichuan offers home cooks the tools needed to make a broad range of Sichuan dishes, ranging from the simple to the complex. The book includes beautifully reproduced food and travel photography, as well as Dunlop’s extensive writing about the culinary and cultural history of Sichuan, home of one of the great cuisines of the world.

Fuchsia Dunlop is a cook and food-writer specializing in Chinese cuisine. She is the author of the award-winning Land of Fish and Rice: Recipes from the Culinary Heart of China (a collection of recipes from the Jiangnan or Lower Yangtze Region in eastern China), Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking; Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China, an account of her adventures in exploring Chinese food culture; and two other now well-known books of Chinese cooking, Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook, and of course, the aforementioned Land of Plenty.

Fuchsia’s writing has appeared in many publications including Lucky Peach, Saveur, The New Yorker, and Gourmet. In the US, she has won four James Beard awards and was named ‘Food Journalist of the Year’ by the British Guild of Food Writers (GFW) in 2006. Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper won the IACP Jane Grigson Award in the US, and the GFW Kate Whiteman Award for Food and Travel in the UK. Most recently, Land of Fish and Rice won the 2017 Andre Simon Food Book of the Year award.

She is a restaurant consultant in London, and has also consulted and taught Chinese cookery for companies including Williams Sonoma and Marks and Spencer. Dunlop has spoken and cooked at conferences and events in China, Barcelona, California, New York, Sydney and Singapore, and as part of the Transart festival in Bolzano, Italy.

Fuchsia Dunlop grew up in Oxford, England, and studied at Magdalene College, Cambridge University, Sichuan University, and the School of Oriental and African Studies in London. She speaks, reads and writes Chinese.

‘The best writer in the West… on Chinese food’ — Sunday Telegraph

‘Fuchsia Dunlop joins the ranks of literary food writers such as Elizabeth David and Claudia Roden.’ — Independent

‘A world authority on Chinese cooking… Her approach is a happy mixture of scholarly and gluttonous.’ — Observer Food Monthly

Support independent bookselling – purchase The Food of Sichuan from RJ Julia Booksellers in Madison, Connecticut, they will send the book to you promptly.

Visit the author’s excellent and comprehensive website here.

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Andrew Coe: Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States

978-0195331073 – Hardcover – Oxford University Press – $24.95

Andrew Coe is a very fine writer indeed – his experience as a journalist shows.   Like Mark Kurlansky (Cod, still one of my favorite books among many others he has written), Andrew takes deeply researched historical information and presents them smoothly, telling stories that are packed with fascinating details to bring a subject we think we know into much clearer perspective.

In Chop Suey, Coe takes us on a long journey, beginning in 1784 with the earliest contacts between Americans and China.  Throughout, it is hard not to be surprised and sometimes embarrassed by the incredible self centered and disrespectful Americans.  At times they were better at understanding and working with the absolute foreignness of Chinese culture and experience than were the Europeans, but only marginally so.  At the time the first wave of Chinese immigrants came to America in the mid-19th century, only a few Americans knew anything meaningful or substantive about China and the Chinese, and much of what they did “know” was untrue or seriously exaggerated.  And later, American xenophobia reached astonishing heights, as Coe documents, with the now forgotten banning of citizenship to Chinese people who had as much right to be here as any other immigrants.

The gulf of understanding between Americans and Chinese had a great deal to do with the way Chinese food was received in this country, but Coe documents in compelling detail, the way that Chinese cuisine came to become the integral part of the American cuisine that it is today, with over 40,000 Chinese restaurants of many different kinds.  With the gradual Chinese migration to the East Coast, eventually New York “Bohemians” discovered Chinese restaurants, and made wildly popular, the seemingly new dish, chop suey.  In fact, according to Coe, it was a peasant cuisine from one part of China that came to dominate Chinese-American restaurants.

There are many great stories along the way to where we are today.  Coe talks about how American Jews fell in love with Chinese restaurants and in particular makes a great story of President Richard Nixon’s 1972 trip to China and how it opened minds and palates across America.  This was a particularly fun part of the book for me.  For anyone who loves food of any kind, and especially the intersection of food and culture, this book will be a pleasure to read.

Talking to Andrew was a pleasure.  He gives a terrific interview – fully in command of his subject, and really fun to talk with.  I think that hearing our discussion will encourage readers to seek out this wonderful book.  I am certainly looking forward to his next book.

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